I left Spain a few days ago and now I’m back in Finland for a couple weeks. I had enough of sport climbing for a long time and am very psyched to boulder again! A few months ago I heard about a cool project near Helsinki and now that I’m back in Finland, I finally got a chance to go check it out. Today we went to go look at it, but the weather and record amount of snow turned our trip...
Bouldering grades: Everything is average nowadays
I decided to write down some of my thoughts on bouldering grades, since a lot has been happening during the last years in the bouldering world. This sort of conversation still seems to be some sort of a taboo in the climbing community, so I am prepared to receive a lot of negative reactions, but I feel like this is a really important topic to discuss. I’m going to start from the beginning of...
This is the trailer for our upcoming feature-length climbing film CORE. From the director of PURE… CORE goes to the heart of climbing. Join an international cast of the sport’s most dedicated athletes as they stick it when it matters most. Shot in 35mm Ultra High Definition, get ready to see every detail of some of the nastiest pieces of rock ever climbed. A close examination of each...
Spain and CORE
Not much has been going on lately. I’ve been trying to get some endurance by climbing some easier routes around 8a+ - 8b. I feel like my endurance has finally improved enough to start trying the hard routes. We’ve been climbing mainly in Oliana lately, where all the routes are extremely long, but also a little bit in Margalef where all routes are much shorter. I’ve been syked on...
I’ve been sport climbing here in Catalonia, Spain for over a week now and it’s been really fun. The bad weather all over Europe made me change my plans and I decided to come here to hang out with the crew. Overall the weather has been pretty good here, but Margalef is still wet for the most part, so we’ve been climbing a lot in Oliana. Boira in Les Avillanes Oliana is an...
Pure available as HD dowload
Chuck Fryberger’s latest film Pure is now available as HD download from Bouldering.com. I just downloaded it and it looks really good in high definition. Get it here for $14.99 (~10 euros) Here’s the trailer: Pure is about 19 extraordinary climbers in six countries on three continents, with no ropes. Featured Climbers: Nalle Hukkataival: This young Finnish climber has put in...
Could Be Worse
Finally the film is finished. None of us know anything about filming or editing so we decided on the name Could Be Worse. I personally think it turned out pretty decent, so here it is. Please send all negative feedback to email@example.com. A short bouldering film (27 min) shot in Ticino, Switzerland and Maltatal, Austria. Starring Nalle Hukkataival and Kuutti Huhtikorpi. List of...
Two week ago I found the Ninja project in Sobrio. I cleaned it started working on it the next day. It turned out to be harder than it looks and the first day we spent trying to figure out the upper section. After lots of tries with countless different ways, I tried something out of the box. Smearing my left foot on the overhanging wall and kicking hard with my right foot as I jumped, gave me...
Weather in Ticino has been great and we’ve been climbing pretty much every day. Some days ago we had a nice night session at Dreamtime and I managed to do the FA (?) of the stand start after the break, which is probably 8B now. I must say it’s not as good as it used to be. The would probably be a real 8C now. Dreamtime stand after-break On Wednesday I found a sick new project that...
Zero Skillz Productions
I’ve been here in Switzerland for a couple weeks now. The weather has not been very good, but seems like it’s getting better. A few days ago I did a very height dependent problem called Conquistador, 8A+ in Chironico. This boulder lies in the riverbed in Schattental and the landing is now about 2 meters higher than what it used to be. A nice problem nevertheless. Yesterday I climbed...
Interview with Joost Climbing
Here is a link to an interesting interview I did with JoostClimbing:
I’m in Helsinki, looking at the snow falling on the ground. For me the snow means one thing, time to get out of here. Conditions were nice until yesterday, but now it looks like there won’t be too much climbing going on here anymore. Some projects remain unclimbed, until the next time. Chuck Fryberger was here filming and we got some nice footage, that I’m very psyched about....
Lately I’ve been hanging out in Finland. A few days ago Chuck Fryberger got here and we’ve been filming a lot of different things, also some that have nothing to do with climbing. Chuck’s idea is to show a little bit of the people’s lifestyles too in his next film, not just climbing. I think it’s a great idea and it’s been really fun shooting all kinds of things...
Dead Point Magazine posted a video of me climbing Jade, V15 in R.M.N.P. The footage is from June, in some very interesting weather conditions. To read more about my ascent, check out my earlier blog post.
Livin' Large in South Africa
It’s been a while since I last time updated my blog. The African internet connections can be unbelievably slow, if they even work. Anyway, once again Rocklands was amazing. I even found that really hard and perfect project I’ve been looking for. Last season I found this pretty small, but compact area while hiking around in the Kleinefontaine area. In the middle of the area stands a...
Change of scenery
My trip to Colorado in now over and I’m on my way to South Africa. I’m really satisfied with what I managed to climb in Colorado, especially since the weather was really bad at first. Climbing Jade was my primary goal and after quickly dispatching it, I was able to focus on other things like making one of my best FA’s, Sunseeker and repeating classics. Check out this excellent video of Carlo...
Yesterday was Mt. Evans day again. I wanted to go try a project at area B, that I had seen photos of earlier this week. I thought it looked really good in the photos, but when we got up there I was blown away. This tall and proud line climbs a sloping rail on a perfect steep overhang, leading to a horrifying mantle high off the deck. It has a good obvious starting hold and about 21 moves, all of...
I’ve been here in Colorado for a couple weeks now and the weather has been anything but good. Actually it’s been raining pretty much every day. Still we’ve managed to get some climbing in. The season is just starting in the park and a lot of the problems in lower and upper chaos are still buried in snow. Freaks of the Industry, V13 Despite the snow, the Green 45 is in the prime...
Home sweet home
I’m back home from Val di Mello in Italy where the annual Melloblocco was held. It’s a big outdoor bouldering event (6000 people estimated!) in the Italian Alps. This was my fist time there and I thought it was good fun, except for the weather which was really hot for hard bouldering. There were a few problems with price money that was split between the people who climbed them. Among...
The Machinist Video
There is a nice video on Projekt-Media.com of The Machinist, V13. It’s a really cool roof problem I put up in Hueco this spring. Props to Brant Hawkins for making the video.