So here’s my whole experience with Bügeleisen.
I went to Maltatal in 2009 to try it and the boulder was literally a waterfall. This time I scheduled my trip later in the spring in hope of it being drier. And it was, a little.
I tried it the fist day when most of the holds were still soaking wet and thought I could do it then, but decided to wait for better conditions. And here’s when it all went downhill. I got sick for 6 long days while the conditions were perfect.. When I finally half recovered from the sickness, I only had a couple days left of the trip and the conditions were BAD again. Talk about a mental battle every day looking at the perfect sunny weather outside while taking your temperature to see if the fever’s gone down and counting how many days you have left. Knowing that the next chance to come back would be late in the fall didn’t exactly help either.
Here’s where most people sarcastically think: “poor professional climber doesn’t get to go climbing. I feel SO sorry for him”. Yes sure, as vain as talking about something like this may be, it’s not without a reason. Every time you set goals and put your heart into something only to have everything go against you, it’s hard to deal with mentally. At least for me.
When I tried Bügeleisen the first day while it was wet, it felt very doable in a day. After that the whole thing turned into such an epic battle with the sickness and conditions that the actual climbing part seemed only secondary. The day I climbed it, the last day of the trip, conditions were so bad that I was forced to completely change my beta, because the normal beta was just impossible in that humidity. It was in fact so bad that I fell off the easier ending 4 times in a row, from a move that I had never fallen from before and thought I never would. One of the times I actually punched myself in the face on accident, because my hand slipped so unexpectedly.
Bügeleisen really is one of the BEST hard boulders in the world and that’s why I was pretty bummed that climbing such a great problem had to turn into an unenjoyable battle with other elements. Nevertheless, hats off for Klem Loskot for opening such an amazing boulder back in 2001! All I can say is if there were more hard lines of this QUALITY in the world, it would make me way more psyched to travel around trying to repeat things instead of mainly searching for those first ascents!