Yesterday I managed to make the first ascent of the well known Wagon project seen in the Dosage 4 film. While it was probably the most famous boulder project in the world, I’d wanted to climb this problem ever since Dave Graham showed it to me in 2006.
Off The Wagon, as I named it, is one of the purest boulders I’ve ever climbed! There are only a few features on the wall and they are far apart. I used the same beta that Chris Sharma was trying in the Dosage film; a hard deadpoint to a crazy campus rose-move. If not also the first move, the second move is something that I’ve never seen anywhere else in the world! It’s very unique! Basically the boulder distills down to a really hard 2-move sequence followed by an easier but really nice outro.
So how do you grade something like this? Since I climbed my first 8B+, Dreamtime, almost 8 years ago I’ve reached a level of climbing 8B+ quickly and consistently. Although I’ve tried the Wagon project mostly one day here and there on different trips and often in less than ideal conditions, it still took me three sessions this trip alone. I can’t think of another 8B+ that would have given me that much resistance recently. That is why I find it hard to see it as your typical 8B+.
As always, it will suit some people better than others. Although it’s my style, I’m extremely spanned out sticking the first dyno which makes the next campus move really hard. I must have fallen there at least eight times on the link, after sticking the first dyno. So based on my experience on the problem, I’m proposing 8C for it.
The funny thing is that since my first time on it years ago, I always felt like I should be able do it pretty easily, but this problem is deceiving. It’s easy to feel like you are close, but putting together that last missing little bit turned out to be much harder than I thought.
Numbers aside, this boulder is something really special and for me personally topping it out was a very concrete sign of progress! Already many strong climbers are lining up to try Off the Wagon, so I’m sure soon enough we’ll have a better guess at the difficulty.
That’s one more project down, but still so many to left to try!
Important note: Although other areas in this valley aren’t concerned, this particular boulder is access sensitive due to it’s proximity to some houses. Please be respectful when visiting this boulder and keep the noise down.
First ascent of Parallel Lines, V11. photo: Keith Ladzinski
Just another project
V15? double dyno project